Sakalava Bay in morning sun — Photo: Chirocca77

Sakalava Bay at low tide. — Photo: Chirocca77

A kiter off the north bays of Antsiranana. — Photo: Ariarymadachoix

The beach and the trees behind it at Sakalava Bay. — Photo: Chirocca77

Two kites over the bay, seen from Sakalava beach. — Photo: Chirocca77

Madagascar

Aug · 100% rideable

Sakalava Bay

What it's actually like

For kiting, the Varatraz comes in side to side-onshore from April to October, with August reaching 100 per cent. The lagoon behind the reef is mirror-flat at low tide, waist-deep for learning, and the reef waves wait for experts.

Salama, hello in Malagasy. Sakalava Bay sits in the far north of Madagascar, about 20 km from Diego Suarez: 15 km of sealed road, then 4.5 km of sand track. A coral reef protects a shallow lagoon behind a white sand beach more than 2 km long. The lodges and their schools are spread along it. The wind is the Varatraz, the south-east trade, blowing side to side-onshore from April to November. From December to March comes the rainy season, with irregular wind.

April to October is the season, and the Varatraz does not mess about. In every one of those months since 2017, more than three days in four clear 12 knots for three daylight hours or more. August reaches 100 per cent. On those days it sits between 16 and 18 knots, filling in from the morning and peaking around midday. From December to March the share drops to between a quarter and a half.

The lodges talk bigger numbers than the average. Think 15 to 25 knots from late March to late April, 20 to 30 in May and June, 25 to 35 from July to September. Kite sizes run from 9 to 14 m early in the season down to 5 to 10 m from July to September. If you want lighter wind, steer clear of June to September.

The flat water is a few steps off the sand. At low tide a sandbank about 200 m long runs from the beach out to the small island. The lagoon turns mirror-flat and shallow over a sandy, seagrass bottom. At high tide in strong wind it gets choppier. The zone towards the mangrove is flat at low tide but turbulent. Mid and high tide suit foiling. The wind is steady and free of gusts, and beginners learn in waist-deep water.

Out at the entrance to the bay the reef throws up the waves. They average 2 m and break 500 m from the shore, much bigger in a strong swell, and the break can sit up to 800 m out. The reef is for experienced riders on strapless and wave boards.

The tide sets the session. At low tide the sandbank gives standing depth over most of the bay for four to six hours. The shallows can ground you at speed or on a foil. Ask locally before riding the reef waves or setting off downwind to the Emerald Sea, the green lagoon the lodges reach on guided kite trips. The side-onshore wind is the backstop: a long swim ends on the beach. The bay is uncrowded, often close to empty.

Sakalava Lodge has run kite holidays on the bay since 1999. It is an IKO centre teaching kite and wing, with bungalows for up to 15 guests. MadaKiteCamp has taught kite, wing and windsurf since 2012. Ocean Lodge teaches kite, wing and windsurf from mid-March to late November. KiteParadise runs a kite and windsurf school from its hotel.

The sea is usually about 28°C but can drop to 23°C in July and August. Boardshorts do most of the year, with a shorty or a light 2/2 or 3/2 for July, August and the windy early and late sessions.

Rules and safety. There is no public lifeguard and no municipal rescue service at the bay. Cover on the water depends on the school or lodge you ride in front of. For an ambulance or the police, call 117 from a mobile or 17 from a landline. For the fire service, call 118 from a mobile or 18 from a landline. Check the tide before every session.

When it's good

Is it for you?

LevelBody dragger to kiteloop
Learn kiting in waist-deep lagoon water; the reef waves at the entrance are for experts.
WaterMillpond to head-high
Mirror-flat at low tide, with waves of about 2 m breaking on the reef.
LaunchBarefoot
More than 2 km of white sand to launch from, with lodges along it.
WetsuitBoardies
Sea about 25 °C in August: boardies weather, with a rash vest at most.
AprèsLights out at nine
No bar within 5 km, but 2 places to eat: early nights, early sessions.
CostVan life
Full kite kit is 75 euros a day at KiteParadise and MadaKiteCamp.

Where to launch

Conditions change. Check local rules and conditions before you ride.

Launch

Lodge beaches

Sand beach in front of the lodges, with flat water inside the reef.

For kite, wing, windsurf. Directions: Google Maps · Apple Maps
Sandbank

Shows at low tide, with standing depth over most of the bay.

For kite, wing. Directions: Google Maps · Apple Maps
Reef entrance

Waves break on the reef at the bay entrance, a few hundred metres out, at medium and high tide.

For kite. Directions: Google Maps · Apple Maps

Getting there

Nearest airportDiego Suarez (DIE). Arrachart airport is your closest, about 21 km by road, around 45 minutes.
Getting around4WD or a taxi. The last 4.5 km is sand track, so a 4WD helps. Transfers take 30 to 50 minutes.

Stay, learn and rent

Full details for every place are in the Pocket Guide.

Sakalava Lodge

$$$

Beachfront bungalows for up to 15 guests, full board and an open bar, sold as all-inclusive weeks.

Website

MadaKiteCamp

Our pick: 190 m from the launch

Beachfront bungalows with a restaurant and a school on site. Open March to December.

Book on Booking.com

KiteParadise

Suites and bungalows facing the sand bar, with secure kite storage in the room price and a pizzeria.

Book on Booking.com

Book links to Booking.com and Agoda may earn WindChaser a commission, at no extra cost to you.

Pocket Guide

Sakalava Bay, in your pocket

Everything you need on the beach in one PDF. Save it to your phone and it works with no signal.

01The month: wind, conditions and water02Every hazard, and the local rules03The launches, with maps04Getting there with kit05Stays, schools and kit hire06Where every score comes from

Sakalava Bay

When it's good

Is it for you?

Where to launch

Lodge beaches

Sandbank

Reef entrance

Getting there